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My Reviews

2020.07.19 23:37 metasciences1234 My Reviews

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2015.02.09 17:53 nephros [Guide] The lengthy bracelet, band and watch strap primer

Bracelets

Bracelet Styles

Link-style bracelets (Oyster, President, Jubilee, ...)

Named after the Rolex models they most commonly appear on, these three are by far the most common styles of bracelet:
Other common bracelet constructions:
  • H-style, an Oyster variant (or the other way around)
  • Beads-of-Rice, a variant of the jubilee with rice-shaped center links
  • (Super) Engineer a chunky, checkerboard-like construction
All these may be ornamented using different variants of polishing, plating or varying materials, creating two-tone, brushed-and-mirror finish etc. looks to match the watch case.

Mesh, Shark Mesh, Milanaise

Mesh bracelets are made of small ring-like components weaved together in a mesh of varying degrees of tightness. This can make them look and feel more like a canvas strap rather than a link bracelet. The finer mesh look is a bit dated today, but that can be fitting depending on the watch (for example mid-20th century gold dress watches, and many ladies watches).
A "shark mesh" uses relatively large rings and is named after the chainmail "sharksuit" used in diving. To be a "true" shark mesh the rings go directly onto the springbar, but many have a tube-like end for the springbar.
A "Milanaise" bracelet is strictly speaking as a mesh weave so tight it will not lay flat on a surface, but is commonly used to mean any type of finer mesh.

Expansion/Elastic/Flex Bracelet

A once-popular utilitarian generic replacement bracelet, a claspless metal bracelet held together by small springs. Horribly out of date today, they should be replaced whenever encountered. They also get disgustingly filthy with use and are impossible to clean.
Example

Bracelet Links

These can be either folded or solid. The former is created by folding in a sheet of metal and cut/mill to size. These are cheaper, lighter but can have undesirable qualities such as ringing or rattling when moved, or catching arm hair. Therefore solid links, which are cut/milled from a solid piece of metal are generally preferred, but more expensive.
Links, and the bars that hold them together wear out with time causing the bracelet to be looser, louder and possibly less comfortable (and eventually break).

Quality

can range from the absolute bottom level shouldn't-even-touch-your-wrist-once (Vostok) to unbelievable attention to detail (AP RO).
In the middle ground, there's not a huge difference in comfort and practicality between, say, the bracelet of a $400 Seiko diver or a $1k Rolex oyster bracelet, however the finish will be noticeably higher quality with more expensive ones. Also, the clasps can be all kinds of nifty, see below.

Sizing

If you're not going to do it often, getting your bracelet adjusted at some local shop will probably the most hassle free option. But if you want to do it yourself, here's some hints:
Bracelets are in general a bit trickier to fit to your wrist than straps because you have to remove links from the bracelet. When adjusting the size, keep in mind that your wrist circumference will change throughout use, depending on climate, temperature, diet and other factors.
The details for adjusting depend on how the bracelet is made. This guide should cover the gist of it. You don't strictly need a pin-pushing tool for this, but this author's (literally) bloody experience recommends using one.
Mesh bracelets may also have removable segments, but most come with either holes and a tang buckle, or a clasp that can be moved along the bracelet itself to change the size.
Expansion bracelets are more or less one-size-fits all, but in case you need to adjust one here's how.

Straps and Bands

Leather

The most common straps are leather straps. They come in many shapes and colours, and materials - usually calf leather, but other, more exotic animal skins are used as well (horse, lizard, snake, stingray, crocodile, alligator, ostrich are common). Many include stitching to add some ornament/coloucharacter to the strap.
  • Textured leather: cattle skin that has been treated to look like other, more exotic animal skin
  • Shell Cordovan leather: a specially procured type of horse leather famed for it's toughness and longevity
  • other types of leather are a bit beyond scope of this guide, but Wikipedia has more
Here also, quality can vary a lot, from $2 GENIUNE LEATHER to four-figure hand-crafted pieces of art. A $20-$60 genuine leather strap appears to suit most people and watches though, $100-$300 for fine specimen.
Exotic Leathers This is a matter of personal choice, but yours truly would like to submit than except in rare cases, printed textured leather should be preferred to genuine exotics. You don't have to be a vegan or PETA member to show some respect for animals and their treatment and, like with shoes, jackets, or handbags, genuine exotic animal skins are problematic.

Synthetic (Rubber, plastic, caoutchouc, silicone...)

Most often seen with dive or other tool watches, but also common on more stylish designs and even high-end luxury sometimes come on rubber. Advantages include resistance to elements, easy cleaning and durability. Rubber is also cheaper than bracelets or leather, so if you intend to change the strap anyway, get it on rubber. Other than that there's not much difference to leather straps.
Famous examples:

Canvas, Nato, Zulu

Straps made from woven fabric (originally, leather variants exist) . They are more durable than leather, can be used with fixed lugs, and are available in a variety of colours. Water resistance of course, making them popular with divers. They will also keep the watch on the wrist even if one of the springbars fails, and can be exchanged rather quickly which has lead to their popularity with people who like to vary the appearance of their watch.
Keep an eye on quality when shopping, lower-grade ones tend to be rather thin (not always a drawback) and may fray easily. The buckle can also be quite horrible, especially on the Perlon type.

The "Bond" strap

One of the reasons the NATO strap has become so popular recently is the way James bond wore his watch in the movie Goldfinger. The real James Bond strap has 9 stripes of navy blue, olive green and bordeaux (there are black-and-gray straps often marketed as "Bond"). It's also not a NATO strap - the NATO was introduced in the 80s, much later than the movie. It's rather a slip-through Perlon strap, and it's not narrower than the lugs would allow on purpose, rather there were no straps of that width available at the time.

Bund/Cuff-link strap

A leather variant of the Perlon/slip-through strap which adds a pad of leather between the watch and the wrist.

Attachment and Endlinks

Sizing and Swapping

Here's a good guide on how to attach and detach watch bands.
The most important measurement here is the lug width: the space between the lugs that must fit the spring bar and the band or bracelet endlinks. This is measured in millimetres and standard sizes are even numbers. Odd-sized are out there but rarer. As a rule of thumb, odd-sized lug widths can accommodate one size larger straps if they're soft enough (leather, rubber, canvas), or the strap can be cut to size. Bracelet endlinks must fit exactly though.
For bands which taper towards the buckle, a second measurement is given which must match the buckle or clasp width.

Spring bars

Spring bars are by far the most common method of fixing both bands and bracelets to watch cases. They come in many shapes, and more importantly many sizes.
To remove and replace a spring bar a Spring bar tool is the preferred way of working with these (it's not required though, for one-off jobs small screwdrivers or knives can be used). If you intend to change straps often, get a tool though, they're cheap and handy.
Make sure the springbar fits as firmly as possible (size up the bar if in doubt), dropping mechanical watches is not fun.

Endlinks and shaped strap ends

If you want your bracelet to fit snugly around the case, you will have to find the correct endlinks. This is an example of a generic attachment without endlinks fitted to the case. It does fit, but there is a gap between the end of the bracelet and the case. Curved endlinks will bridge that gap and it will look like this.
  • hollow endlink: The cheap and common version, it's a piece of sheet metal in the right shape to hug the case, accept the spring bar and attach to the last link of the bracelet. The main advantage is the price, as it is much cheaper than the solid version. The drawback is generally a more loose connection, and rattling can occur.
  • solid endlink: The more desirable version, usually found in more expensive watches and bracelets, and custom pieces. A bit heavier, but also longer lasting.
Finding the correct endlink for a random bracelet and watch can be a challenge, so endlinks should be bought together with the bracelet and must fit the case and lug shape.
Rubber or leather straps also sometimes are shaped to hug the case or lugs. This is a form of "proprietary" attachment and has the same problems, as mentioned below.

Fixed/soldered lugs

These are usually found on older (pre-1950s) watches, often military style but also many dress or trench watches. They consist of a simple loop of wire soldered to the case or between the lugs.
There are special leather straps available which can be fixed to these watches. They come either as an open loop that's slipped around the wire and then glued, or have a clip of metal inside to fix the loop ends together.
Slip-through straps like NATO/ZULU, canvas slip-through or Bund style can also be used with these.

non-standard/proprietary/integrated band attachments

Some watch models and brands do not have a standard way of attaching their straps and bracelets. This is most common with fashion watches, but almost all manufacturers have models which do this.
These straps can be problematic because replacement depends on availability. For some versions, straps can be cut to size or adapters are available. For others, one must buy from the original manufacturer.

Buckles and clasps

Tang Buckle

By far the most common for leather, rubber and canvas straps, not much to be said about it, it works just like a belt buckle. They should match the watch case in metal colour, and are usually attached using smaller versions of spring bars (depending on the taper of the strap).

Sliding clasp

One of the possibilities to close a mesh bracelet. One end hooks into the other and is secured by a flap that closes over it. It can slide along the rest of the strap to adjust bracelet length. Sometimes seen on leather as well.

Fold-over clasps

The most common closing mechanism for bracelets. Fold-over clasps are a three-piece construction that close under the wearer's wrist. Some have a push button and/or and additional flap securing the closed clasp against accidental opening.

Butterfly and Deployant/Deployment clasps

The version of the fold-over clasp for leather straps. It is normally seen on higher-end straps because the lack of holes and tang puts less strain on the band. The Butterfly is a double-sided version of the deployant.
Again, push buttons are common to secure the closed clasp.
There are regular discussions about whether it's called a deployant or deployment clasp, the latter is likely an erroneous anglicization of the French deployer (unfold). For practical purposes: both are used.
Depending on the details of the clasp, regular straps can be used, or they may have to be cut to fit.

Other features

A diver's extension expands the bracelet quickly for use with diving suits. A racheting clasp has a similar function but allows finer adjustment.
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And that's all folks, hope you find this useful, or at least useful enough to point someone here.
If you want to contribute, how about some comments on how to change straps, adjust bracelets and affix clasps and such? Non-springbar attachments? Cleaning/maintenance advice and so on is also missing here.
submitted by nephros to Watches [link] [comments]


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